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At last, water; thirst for riches yet quenched
By Jerry Bowen
In my last installment of James Pleasants' trek to California, the
wagon train members were able to gather scant water for themselves at Rabbit
Springs - also known as Rabbit Hole Springs - and began making their way across
a portion of the Black Rock Desert.
Although Pleasants' recollections still don't give an accurate
accounting of when they continued on from Rabbit Springs, it was most likely
September 1849 when they began crossing the flat white, sandy plains of the
lower Black Rock Desert.
One finally gets a little idea that things are going from bad to
worse for the Pleasant Hill Train. The heat was suffocating and the lack of
water began taking an unbelievable toll on the worn-out voyagers. Mirages
plagued men and animals alike.
Day and night they pushed on, only stopping briefly to rest, feed
and water the cattle with what little fluid that was available in shallow wells
dug by pioneers who had passed through before them. It was essential they reach
adequate water before their animals gave out.
Pleasants recorded, "At this time we came in sight of eight or ten
giant springs, their rippling contents so clear and pellucid that small pebbles
could be distinctly seen lying on the gravelly bottoms some twenty feet down."
They had probably reached Black Rock Point and the Boiling Hot Springs. He goes
on to say, "But this sparkling water as if to mock the thirst now almost
consuming us, was boiling hot.
"Our cattle, almost maddened by the sight of water, could hardly be
restrained from rushing into the cauldrons, and one poor beast did fall into the
hot fluid. We dragged him from it with ropes, but he was so badly scalded we in
mercy killed him."
At this point it's not very clear which trail they followed; the
Lassen-Applegate Trail or Nobles Cutoff more directly west. At first, one might
think he took the Nobles Cutoff to Gerlach, but later on he says they are on the
shores of Goose Lake on the border of Oregon and California.
With that in mind, I'll assume he stayed on the Lassen-Applegate
Trail as he went on to say, "Here we were compelled to leave several wagons, the
teams that drew them having entirely given out. These were unyoked and left to
die. A few of the wagons were cut asunder and made into carts. Quantities of
flour and bacon are abandoned and left by the roadside. We struggle on with what
cattle and wagons are left, but the loose sand makes heavy pulling.

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The oxen stagger along at the rate of a mile an hour, frequently dropping down
in their tracks completely exhausted. Allowing them to rest thus for a little
while, we help them to their feet and urge them on. All of the afternoon of the
last day we are in sight of Mud Lake, where good water and grass abound."
This must have been during travel through the very impressive High
Rock Canyon with walls about 300-foot high for several miles on both sides of
the trail.
The men took empty kegs and, going forward on foot, brought water
back to the desperate animals to revive them. After three more days they reached
an area with plenty of grass and water, probably at High Rock Lake.
In the previous 50 hours they had lost nearly half of their wagons,
several of the cattle, and had to abandon many of their provisions.
They remained in camp for a few days to rest and recuperate. Even
after resting, forward progress was slow due to exhaustion, to the edge of
mountains that skirted the border of California near Vya, Nev.
Even though the mountains at this point aren't too difficult, it
took them an entire day to reach the summit on the border of Nevada and
California.
They followed the trail through a fairly gentle slope heavily
covered with trees that must have been welcome after the trek through the
desert. On reaching the shores of Goose Lake, they followed the shoreline south
for several days to the Pitt River and finally neared the northern end of
Sacramento Valley. They followed the Pitt River and camped for a few days on
Deer Creek, west of Lake Almanor.
As they crossed the higher range of mountains, William Pleasants
had been suffering from a long spell of mountain fever and the rest stop was
quite welcome. While they were camped at Deer Creek another member of the party,
Mr. David Meyers Sr., died of mountain fever and was buried there. James
Pleasants was very concerned about his son's fever and sent a messenger for a
Dr. Powell who was in another wagon train about 10 miles ahead. After Dr. Powell
examined William, he told his father he didn't think the boy would survive, but
he would do his best to help. The next morning William's condition had improved
and the doctor was able to return to his own train. While William recuperated,
the members of the wagon train took advantage of the numerous deer in the area
to replenish their food supplies. James seems to have particularly enjoyed
hunting with a Mr. William Hopper. |

The weather began to threaten snow, and with the memory of the Donner Party
fresh in their minds, the train decided to head down into the valley before the
snow began to fly. Soon after leaving Deer Creek another member of the train,
William Massey, died of mountain fever and was buried alongside the trail. Only
one more obstacle remained in their way before reaching the Sacramento Valley
safely. The trail was over rough terrain and high hills. On reaching a place on
top of a hill with a very steep downhill run about 400-yards long, William
recounted, "It had been cleared of the small oak brush that still stood thick,
like a fence on either side. So abrupt was the incline, it was thought necessary
to rough-lock both hind wheels of our wagons if we would make the descent
safely. One light wagon, drawn by a single yoke of oxen, drove up into position
to be locked, but was halted too far forward over the edge of the declivity. The
wagon, being on a slight downgrade, began crowding the oxen, and before the
chain could be put through the wheels the whole outfit, minus the driver, shot
away downward like a flash of light, gathering speed as it went, and was soon
lost to view in a great cloud of red dust. Strange to say, the animals, poor and
weak as they were, kept their feet to the very bottom, where one of the wheels,
striking a big rock, caused the yoke to snap asunder, and the two principal
actors in the comedy quietly turned about and began eating a lot of grass that
was in the wagon, thinking evidently that the occurrence was simply a part of
the regular program, and therefore not entitled to be thought the least bit
surprising." One more day of travel and they finally reach the Sacramento Valley
where they lost another member, Jerry Overstreet, to mountain fever. Following
the Sacramento River to the junction of the Feather River, they then turned east
and on Oct. 15, 1849, they reached Bidwell's Bar near today's Oroville. They had
reached, "...the land of our dreams, after having been five months and eight
days or about one-hundred and sixty days on the road." Here was where they would
make their try at reaping the hoards of gold that they expected to find. When
they left Pleasant Hill, Mo., their expectations were that they would return
within 18 months with at least a reasonable share of the riches of California.
But as were the dreams of so many others, the hard work for little return would
shape their lives in a different way than they had expected.
I'll continue next week with the Pleasants' trip to the real final
destination.
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